Category: DIY Projects


DIY Nursery Closet Dividers


We have a small closet in our nursery that we will be storing our baby clothes.  In order to organize the clothes by size, I made up some cheap and easy closet dividers.

Nursery Closet Dividers

 

I used some Martha Stewart scrapbook paper, circle cutting tool, and cardboard.  Using the cutting tool, I cut a 4″ circle with a 1.5″ circle inside.  Then I cut a wedge large enough to fit over our closet rod.

Closet Divider

 

I attached light blue scrapbook paper and added woodland animals on top.

Woodland Nursery Closet

 

Cutting out the animals was the most time consuming, but I think they look great and it was worth the time.

Woodland Nursery Closet Dividers

 

Nursery Closet

 

Once we find out if we have a girl or boy, we can fill the closet with even more cute clothes!  Hopefully baby decides to make an appearance soon, because there is a lot of cool stuff waiting for him/her!  I hope I have news soon.  Thanks for reading!

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Gender Neutral Nursery Reveal


Gender Neutral Nursery Reveal

Today I put the finishing touches on the nursery, and I am so excited to share the final pictures.  (You will notice that we still do not have trim in this room.  It was part of the plan to get trim and new ceiling tiles put up before baby arrives, but I’m not sure that it will get done on time.  At least it matches the rest of the house, which doesn’t have trim anywhere at the moment!)

This room is full of DIY projects, but first and foremost, the recliner!  I spent less than $30 on the drop clothes and piping for this recliner and saved about $500 compared to buying new!  The recliner came from my Grandma’s cottage and is very comfortable.

Recliner Slipcover

 

This slipcover took about 20 hours of work to finish.  I am self-taught when it comes to sewing and I got most of my advice from YouTube.  This was my first time doing piping or any kind of slipcover.  I don’t know what I would have done without THIS VIDEO and THIS BLOG for ideas.  (I will also be writing a separate post about this slipcover next week.)

The pillow on the recliner came with our couch, but was a strange red color.  I used some fabric from JoAnn’s and made an envelope pillow cover from THIS TUTORIAL.

The other project that took a lot of time was the mobile.  Baby Mobile

I followed THIS TUTORIAL.  It took a ton of time and patience.  I love how it turned out, but I can’t say I would do it again.  So much knot tying!

If you follow The Design Eye on Facebook, you have already seen this shelving unit, but we made a few changes.

Nursery Reveal

 

I added chevron fabric to the back of the shelves and ran a wire for the birdhouse nightlight.  We are really happy with how the decal and birdhouse turned out!

We decided not to buy a changing table, but use a dresser instead.  Nursery Changing Station

We are going to be using cloth diapers, so we needed the extra storage space.  I made a liner for a basket we already had (with the same fabric as the envelope pillow cover) and attached the basket to the wall.  That basket holds all of our cloth diaper accessories and cloth wipes.  Under the basket is our wet bag where dirty diapers will go until we have enough to run a load of laundry (likely every other day).

We are planning on using prefold and fitted cloth diapers for the newborn stage.

Fitted and Prefold Cloth Diapers

 

We also have some One-Size pocket diapers ready to go.  I’m sure we will be getting more once we know if we need pink or blue!

Pocket Diapers

 

Now all we need is a baby to put them on!

We also did some other DIY projects in this room that I have already written about, including curtains and a crib skirt.  We are very proud of this room and anxiously waiting to see if a boy or girl will be using it!  We will be hanging their name above the crib as soon as we know.

Thanks for reading!

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DIY Adjustable Crib Skirt


With less than 5 weeks left until my due date, we have been scrambling to get things done on the nursery.  We are almost there and will update with final pictures soon.  This weekend I worked on making a crib skirt. I picked up some woodland themed fabric from JoAnns a while back, but we didn’t get the crib put together until a week ago.

Nursery Fabrics

 

I wanted to make a skirt that would be adjustable when we lower the mattress as baby gets bigger.  After a bit of research, I decided it would be easiest to make 3 panels and attach ribbon to tie to the crib springs.  I made the panels with hem tape, but you could easily sew the panels if you prefer.  I cut 12″ pieces of ribbon and sewed them onto the panels.  I used 5 ribbons on the front panel and 3 ribbons on each side.

Crib Skirt Ribbon

 

The panels should be made to the size of the crib at the highest mattress setting.  My front panel was 52″x15″ and my side panels were 28″x15″.  This gave me a little bit of wiggle room for overlapping and tucking under the mattress.

Crib Skirt Attachment

 

 

When you decide to lower the mattress, the ribbons can be adjusted to tie to any of the supports on the mattress spring.

DIY Adjustable Crib Skirt

 

The whole project only took me a little over an hour, and most of that was cutting the fabric to size.

DIY Crib Skirt

 

We have the Delta Bentley crib.  It was fairly easy to put together and came in great condition.  We are really happy with it so far.

DIY Crib Skirt - The Design Eye

 

For more information on the products in our nursery, check out my Pinterest board.  Once we have the nursery completed I will be sure to update!  Thanks for reading!

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Easy DIY Roman Shade


Easy DIY Roman Shade

Lately I have been seeing roman shades in a lot of design articles.  I wanted to attempt one for our kitchen door to increase the privacy if we want it (especially because the kitchen door is right outside the bathroom door).  This is a short tutorial to DIY a roman shade for a door.

You will need about 3 yards of fabric (which left enough for a cafe curtain on our kitchen window), seam tape, fabric glue, and a cheap set of blinds.

Start by making your fabric the right size to fit the blinds.  I measured the blinds, then added 4 inches to the dimensions.  This allowed and inch and a half for the seams on each side and a bit of overhang left over.

Use the seam tape (or sew) the edges of the fabric to create a large rectangle.

DIY Roman Shade Seam Tape

DIY Roman Shade Seam

 

Next, lay out the blinds on top of the fabric.  The front of the blinds should face the fabric.

DIY Roman Shade Layout

 

It is easiest to glue the top  edge of the blinds down at this point.  The glue will be applied to the edge with the pull cord and laid on top of the fabric.

DIY Roman Shade Glue DIY Roman Shade Top

 

In order to remove the extra slats, you will need to cut the smaller cord that holds them together.  Do not cut the thick pull cord.

DIY Roman Shade Cord

 

Remove the plugs at the bottom of the blinds and untie the pull cord.

DIY Roman Shade Bottom

 

You can now remove the bottom and extra slats.  I placed my slats about 8 inches apart, which left 8 plus my top and bottom.

DIY Roman Shade Spacing

 

Glue each slat down with fabric tape an equal distance apart.  You can choose any number of slats and the distance based on the look you want to achieve.

Once the slats are glued, you need to put the bottom piece back on and tie a new knot to hold it in place.  Then replace the plastic plugs.

DIY Roman Shade Bottom Cord

 

Lastly, the fabric needs to be glued to the bottom piece.  Just apply the fabric glue and wrap the fabric around.

DIY Roman Shade Fabric Bottom

 

Let the glue dry overnight and then hang your curtain following the instructions that came with the blinds.

DIY Roman Shade for a Door

 

That’s all that it takes!  Cutting the fabric to size was the longest part of this project, but it was pretty simple overall.  You can also use this on any window blind by adjusting the number of slats.

Thanks for reading!

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Easy DIY Nest Box


Easy DIY Nest Box

 

Our little chickies have been laying eggs like crazy!  I was told not to expect much this winter because the days are short, and hens typically don’t lay as much in the winter.  Well, our hens didn’t get the message.  Today 11 of our 15 hens laid eggs.  That’s nearly 7 dozen a week if it keeps up!  Eggs

We have just been using 5 gallon buckets laid on their side as nest boxes.  We didn’t have the materials to make the nice ones we wanted right away and the buckets were working great when we only had 4-5 hens laying.  I think since they are being awfully kind in their egg production, we could probably make them some nice boxes.

I will start by listing my cutting list for each pair of boxes for anyone interested in making their own.  It should only take one sheet of plywood (although I’m not entirely sure, because we used scraps of other projects for this).

  • 1  –  15″x30″    (Base)
  • 1  –  17″x30″    (Back)
  • 1  –  16″x30″    (Top)
  • 3  –  15″x17″    (Sides)

I wanted the top to be on an angle, so I cut the 15″x17″ rectangles to only reach 13″ in the front and 17″ in the back.  The top can still be hinged at that angle.

Nest Box Plywood

 

You can pocket-hole drill these pieces together, but we just used some nice self-tapping screws.  The pocket-hole would be stronger, but our birds don’t weigh enough for it to matter.  We attached the back to the base and added the dividers.   Pretty simple.Nest Box In Progress

 

We want the bedding to stay in the boxes, so we cut a scrap piece (about 2″ tall) to fit into each box.Nest Box Building

Lastly, we just needed to put the top on.  We attached the top with 1.5″ hinges.Nest Box Hinges

 

Now the box is ready for installation.DIY Nest Box

In order for the hinges to work properly, we needed to add spacers to our studs in the coop.Nest Box Spacer

Then we just attached the boxes to the wall under the window.  We have a total of 4 boxes, so each unit fits under each of the two windows.  You should have one box for every 4 chickens. Nest Box Installed

 

It took us about 45 minutes to build each unit.  I plan on putting laminate flooring on the top to discourage roosting on the boxes.  I also plan on adding curtains to the front of the boxes.  There are a lot of benefits to adding curtains (outlined well at http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2012/03/nest-box-curtains-more-than-fashion.html)

I will give the hens a little time to adjust to the boxes before I hide them away behind curtains.  Now maybe we can get the other 4 hens to lay (not that we need more eggs)!  Thanks for reading!

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How to Reglaze Old Windows


How to Reglaze Windows

 

I absolutely love our porch windows, but they are in rough shape.  Right now they are quite the eyesore next to our new siding.  They are great windows because they open up all of the way.  We looked for new windows to replace them, but you can’t get windows that open up like these.  Some of the window panes are broken and some have even been replaced with plexiglass.

Porch Windows Before

 

To do this project you will need:

  • Heat gun or hairdryer
  • Putty knife
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Glazing points
  • Glazing compound
  • Knife
  • Wood glue
  • Wood putty

Start by heating the old glazing and scraping it away with a putty knife.

Heating Old Glazing Remove Glazing

 

Be careful of the old glazing points.  They will be small pieces of metal that hold the glass into place before the glazing is put on.  In this case, they were very small glazing points that just look like a point.  They are stuck into the wood and will need to be pulled out with a pliers.  I used a knife to lift it away from the glass to get a better grip.

Old Glazing Points Removed Glazing Point

 

After the glazing points have been removed, you can clean up the glass or measure for a new piece of glass.  If you need a new piece of glass, measure the opening and subtract 1/8″ from each side.  You don’t want the glass to be too tight.  There should be a bit of movement when the glass is laid into place.  The glazing points will hold the glass where it needs to be.

Removing Paint from Glass

 

After cleaning up the glass, you need to put in new glazing points.  I bought mine on Amazon, but you might be able to find them at your local hardware store.  Push the sharp point into the wood by rocking a putty knife back and forth on the prongs.  The prongs should fit tight against the window trim.  With the larger points, you should only need one or two on each side of the pane.

Glazing Points

 

After putting in the points, you can start working the glazing compound.  The compound needs to be warmed with your hands and rolled into a round piece that can be pressed into the window edge.

New Glazing Putty

 

Use a putty knife to press the putty into the window edge.

Reglazing Windows

 

Then, use the putty knife to smooth out the putty at a 45 degree angle (or slightly less).  Scrape away any excess putty.

Smooth Window Glazing

 

If the putty has any slight bumps, use your finger to smooth it out.  You can use the putty knife to smooth out the edge that meets the glass as well.

Glazing Finishing Touch

 

New Window Glazing

 

The glazing will need to set for about a week before you should paint it.  If you paint it before the glazing is fully set, you may have moisture problems, including mildew on the glazing.  When painting, paint about 1/16″ onto the glass to seal the glazing to the window pane.

I will update with more pictures once I am able to paint the windows and install them!

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Shut the Front Door


I was going to give you an awesome tutorial on how to paint your front door.  Instead, I’m going to share my failure with you.  Today is just one of those days.

I wanted to pick a bright, bold color for our exterior doors.  I decided on a blue that was labeled as a “2013 Trending Color”.  Who can go wrong with that?  So I bought “Lapis Enamel” in Dutch Boy exterior door and trim paint.

I painted 2 coats on the door yesterday and let it dry in the sun.  It looked great and had an awesome glossy finish.Front Door Paint

Before I went to bed, I checked the door and made sure it wasn’t tacky or wet.  The paint seemed perfect and we put the door knob back on.Front Door

 

Looks pretty good huh?  Wait, what’s that at the bottom?  Oh, there’s water on the paint.  Must be from that mist this morning.Paint Bubbles

 

Ryan and I grabbed a rag to wipe the water off and make sure the color didn’t fade because of the water.  That’s when the paint bubbles started to wipe right off.Front Door Paint Problems

 

It looks like I will be sanding a repainting the door this week!  Even though the door was dry last night, it rained enough to bubble the paint.  I really would have thought the 8+ hours would have been enough, but I suggest painting when there is no rain in the forecast.  Otherwise, you can take the door off of the hinges and paint inside your house or garage.  We only had a slight chance of showers yesterday and I thought we would be safe, but I won’t take the chance again!

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Building a Chicken Coop: Part 2


**This is part 2 of a 4 part series.  Click here to read part 1**

Building a Chicken Coop

 

Remember, Rome wasn’t built in a day, and neither was our chicken coop…it took 2 days.  That’s right! It only took us 2 days to get our coop into a functional state.  It may not be pretty on the outside (yet) but the chickens are all moved in.

After building all of the framing we got to work by putting OSB on the exterior walls.Coop Walls

With the new support of the walls, we were able to put our homemade trusses up.Putting Up Trusses

Add some OSB to the roof and you’ve got yourself a coop!  Coop Roof Support

We also added our door and windows.  Menards was having a door sale, so we got one really cheap.  We just bought utility windows, which are also relatively cheap.  We used 1×6 lumber to cap off the ends of the trusses.Coop Windows

We put the roofing felt on and will put shingles up, but I will talk about that in part 3.  We will also be boxing in the eves.Coop Roof Felt

 

We didn’t want the chickens to roost on the window sills, so we made a frame with hardware cloth for the inside of the windows.Chicken Coop Windows

Next, we had to build a door that the chickens could use to get into the run.  We built a guillotine style door that works with a pulley.  It only took about an hour to build and works smoothly.Chicken Coop Door Coop Door

 

After that, the chickens just needed a roost to move in.  With only a few 2x4s, we had a nice roost built in a matter of minutes.Chicken Coop Roosts

 

Sadie approves, and she is sad she doesn’t have a cool house like the chickens do!Sadie Approves

 

It will probably be a while before we get the roofing and siding on.  We are planning on using left over siding from the house, so we will have to wait until that is done.  As soon as we have more to update, I will write Part 3 of our chicken coop adventure.

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Building a Chicken Coop: Part 1


We worked very hard this weekend building our chicken coop!  I spent a lot of time designing this coop and wanted it to be perfect.  I did a lot of research and drew up my plans for a coop that could be used as a garden shed if we/future owners didn’t have chickens.

We did a lot of work and have a bit more to do, so I am going to break this into 4 blog posts.  We have not put siding or roofing on or built the run, so those posts will come later.  This is how it stands today:Chicken Coop Started

In the last post about our chicken coop, I wrote a little bit about our major considerations.  With that in mind, let’s get started!

Before we could start building the structure, we had to remove a tree.  Tree Removal

With that out of the way, we built our foundation on top of our gravel.  We built it 16″ on center with treated 2x6s.  Coop Foundation

 

We laid down 3/4″ OSB for the sub-floor.  We would have used 1/2″ but Menards was all out, and we had to take what we could get.  Luckily, the price was good and the structure will be even more sturdy.  Coop Subfloor

After a lot of research online, I discovered that the vinyl should be put on before the walls are put up.  We got a glueless vinyl so all we had to do was lay it down!  Then we were able to start building the framing.Coop VinylCoop Framing

I also did a bit of research to see how to make trusses (because I had no idea where to start).  I found this YouTube video that I used in my design: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfs4rxBeyK0

After some intense geometry, we got 10 identical trusses.

Coop Trusses

 

Now that the framing is all done, we can start putting up the OSB walls.  Check back for Part 2!

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Preparing for Chickens


PreparingforChickens

Today we are getting ready to build a coop for our chickens.  Although I recommend building a coop before your chickens arrive, we have done just fine until now by keeping them in a large outdoor dog kennel.  However, we live in town and do not have many chicken predators around.  Since we need a place for our chickens to nest and roost, the definitely need a coop soon (and hopefully we won’t look like such rednecks anymore).

DogKennelCoop

Our plan is to build a large garden shed that will be used as a coop.  When we sell our house, it can be used even if the next owners do not want chickens.  The shed will be 12’x8′ and will have a full sized entry door.  Here are some things we took into consideration:

1.  Chickens need about 4 square feet each inside the coop.  Since we have 16 chickens, that would mean making a 64 square foot shed.  Ours will be 96 square feet (just in case I want to add a few to my bunch).

2.  Linoleum flooring (which will be installed before the walls are put up) is easy to clean and should cover most surfaces.

3. Ventilation is extremely important and helps keep your chickens safe in the cold winters as well.  We will have vents and windows installed for this purpose.

4. We want a fixed foundation, but do not want it raised so that predators/nuisance animals can get under it.  For this purpose, we are putting down a gravel pad for our foundation to rest on.  This will also help with drainage.

5. I designed the interior of the coop around the nest boxes and roosting sites.  We will have one nest box for every 4 chickens and plenty of room for roosting (they require 8-10″ each).

6. We really want the coop to look nice without costing a lot of money.  I will go into details of our supplies in another post, but the coop will have the same siding as the house and will match the garage.

We are going to put the coop back behind the garage.  You won’t be able to see it from the road and it is in the back corner of the property (away from any neighbor’s homes). Coop Location

We will have to remove one tree before we begin, so that we can have a run come out the west side of the coop.  Other than that, we were able to dump some gravel into our 12’x8′ area.Coop Gravel Foundation

We have just as much gravel left, and we will work on creating a level area when we start building our treated foundation.  Tomorrow we will start the building process, so check back for an update soon!

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